ALPINIST 59

Alpinist 59 – Autumn 2017

Mountain Pro le: La Meije, Part I
«La Meije…exerts over all who see it from a distance or who approach it a
veritable ‹magnetism,'» Roger Canac wrote in 2007. Considered the
«Matterhorn» of the Massif des Écrins, la Meije was the last of the great
Alps to be summited—by an all-French team in 1877. Erin Smart explores the
early history of this long «impossible mountain» in southeast France, while
Claude Gardien and Paula Wright profile a few of the many who dreamed of
making its first ascent.

Ueli Steck (1976–2017)
The great alpinist Ueli Steck left behind a legacy of talent and mystery. With
photos from his friend Jonathan Griffith, editor-in-chief Katie Ives recalls
moments from the life of a man who was much warmer and more human than his
oft-repeated nickname, the «Swiss Machine.»

A Mountain of Shadows
This spring, Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley made the first ascent of one of
Alaska’s most daunting routes: the complete south ridge of Mt. Huntington. As
he recounts what proved to be an epic experience, Helander examines some of
the brooding history and gothic tales that have gathered around this great
peak, the subject of David Roberts› famous book, The Mountain of My Fear.

Contraindications
Anna Smith was a bold climber who sought a life of spontaneity and freedom in
wild places. After Smith’s death in the Miyar Valley of India, her expedition
partner Alison Criscitiello recalls the story of their friendship and
contemplates the tensions between our impulse to desire both love and risk,
community and solitary adventure.

Departments

The Sharp End
During the mid-twentieth century, an ardent conservationist planted a series
of hoaxes in a climbing magazine to send a message about the value of wild
lands. Herein, we reveal one of the great imaginary mountains of Harvey
Manning.

Letters
Alex Honnold’s free solo of El Capitan occasions a letter, and a Tami Knight
response. Dora Keen’s grandniece recalls the fallout of Keen’s nights in the
snow cave on Mt. Blackburn. And Brad Johnson remembers Ueli Steck.

On Belay
Eager to explore new routes in his own country, Karn Kowshik searches for
unclimbed ice in the remote Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh, India.
Meanwhile, Gaby Pilson recalls Pete’s Farewell.

Tool Users
Charlie Lieu recounts the origin of the Sticht Plate, the first modern belay
device.

Climbing Life
Marc-André Leclerc considers the death of a moth in the snow. Ana Beatriz
Cholo becomes an accidental mountaineer. Paul Hersey passes a hammer, and the
narrative, to his partner. Chip Brown unboxes his shadow. Chris Kalman is
first on the scene. And Jon Popowich muses on the meaning of the Ruth.

Full Value
In 1969 a young David Roberts buzzes the doorbell at the apartment of W. H.
Auden, his literary hero, in hopes of inspiring the aging poet to journey with
him to Alaska’s Brooks Range.

Local Hero
As a collector and digital chronicler of mountain history, Bob A. Schelfhout
Aubertijn generally prefers to remain between the lines or behind the shelves.
The intrepid Andrew Szalay seeks out the man behind the mysterious online
avatar.

Off Belay
Derek Franz interrupts his silent partner.