Extreme Eiger

The Race to Climb the Direct Route up the North Face Eiger

The North Face of the Eiger was long renowned as the most dangerous climb in
the Swiss Alps, one that had cost the lives of numerous mountaineers. In
February 1966, two teams – one German, the other British/American – aimed to
climb it in a straight line from bottom to top. Astonishingly, the two teams
knew almost nothing about each other’s attempt until both arrived at the foot
of the face. The race was on.

John Harlin led the four-man British/American team and intended to make a
swift dash for the summit. The Germans, with an eight-man team and a mass of
equipment, planned a slow, relentless ascent. Watching on was a young
journalist reporting on the climb for the Daily Telegraph, Peter Gillman – for
the Eiger is the most public of mountains, where tourists can observe the
life-and-death struggles on the face from telescopes at the nearby hotels.

Almost 50 years on, Gillman recalls the dramatic events on the North Face of
the Eiger, and assesses their effect on those who took part. One man died and
others were permanently injured through frostbite. For Chris Bonington, it
opened a path to a career and reputation as Britain’s foremost mountaineer. It
was an epic ascent with profound consequences, redolent of a golden age of
adventure and mountaineering.
Paperback Edition