Climbing on the historic walls of Piedmont
Rocca Sbarua is the «historical» crag for Piedmont climbing – one of the
first spots, in Italy, intended as a training ground for mountaineering on the
highest peaks of the Alps.
Its walls have been climbed by all the best alpinists in the Thirties,
including Boccalatte, Ellena, Gervasutti; later, after WWII, the likes of
Bianciotto, Rossa, Mellano and Manera explored the area.
The climbers endorsing the Nuovo Mattino movement preferred the comparatively
«newer» Orco Valley over Rocca Sbarua, still they didn`t ignore it: the
first topo reviewing the crags was edited by Miotti.
Rocca Sbarua isn`t anymore «frightful» – Sbarua, in the local dialect, means
«fear», and all the Piedmont climbers carry it in their hearts.
Very popular all year round, Rocca Sbarua is made of a series of granite
layers and prominences on the south face of Monte Freidur, just above
Pinerolo.
This very location plays a key role in its fame: above the plain of Turin and
in front of «His Majesty» Monviso.