ROCK CLIMBING ANCHORS: A Comprehensive Guide

Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and
proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe,
while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen, says certified guide
Craig Luebben, who invented his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro.
Since then, he has taught rock climbing to hundreds of clients and has
conducted self-rescue clinics across the United States. He distills more than
twenty-five years of experience into Rock Climbing Anchors.

This entry in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series, for intermediate-to-
advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-
roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and
mountaineering-all in one comprehensive guide. Luebben covers the finer points
of all types of commonly used anchors: removable anchors including hexes,
wired nuts, tri-cams, expanding wedges, expandable tubes, and cams; natural
anchors such as trees and boulders; and fixed anchors like bolts and pitons.
Photos show a variety of gear placements, accompanied by discussion of the
pros and cons of each.