At dusk on 24 September 1975, Doug Scott and Dougal Haston became the first
\nBritons to reach the summit of Everest as lead climbers on Chris Bonington\u2019s
\nepic expedition to the mountain\u2019s immense south-west face.<\/p>\n
As darkness fell, Scott and Haston scraped a small cave in the snow 100 metres
\nbelow the summit and survived the highest bivouac ever \u2013 without bottled
\noxygen, sleeping bags and, as it turned out, frostbite. For Doug Scott, it was
\nthe fulfilment of a fortune-teller\u2019s prophecy given to his mother: that her
\neldest son would be in danger in a high place with the whole world watching.<\/p>\n
Scott and Haston returned home national heroes with their image splashed
\nacross the front pages. Scott went on to become one of Britain\u2019s greatest ever
\nmountaineers, pioneering new climbs in the remotest corners of the globe. His
\ncareer spans the golden age of British climbing from the 1960s boom in outdoor
\nadventure to the new wave of lightweight alpinism throughout the 1970s and
\n1980s.<\/p>\n
In Up and About, the first volume of his autobiography, Scott tells his story
\nfrom his birth in Nottingham during the darkest days of war to the summit of
\nthe world. Surviving the unplanned bivouac without oxygen near the summit of
\nEverest widened the range of what and how he would climb in the future. In
\nfact, Scott established more climbs on the high mountains of the world after
\nhis ascent of Everest than before. Those climbs will be covered in the second
\nvolume of his life and times.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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