{"id":153606,"date":"2021-01-15T12:38:37","date_gmt":"2021-01-15T12:38:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/codengine3.ch\/?product=import-placeholder-for-207567"},"modified":"2021-01-15T16:04:43","modified_gmt":"2021-01-15T16:04:43","slug":"alpinist-61","status":"publish","type":"product","link":"https:\/\/pizbube.ch\/en\/shop\/alpinist-61\/","title":{"rendered":"ALPINIST 61"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Alpinist Magazine Issue 61 &#8211; Spring 2018<\/p>\n<p>The Beckey Effect<br \/>\nWhen he died last October, Fred Beckey, often referred to as the<br \/>\n&#171;indomitable,&#187; left behind an unprecedented legacy of first ascents across<br \/>\nNorth America, as well as a legend shaped by decades of lore from all who<br \/>\nencountered him in the mountains. In this article, Brad Rassler unravels the<br \/>\nmyth of the &#171;original dirtbag,&#187; while Megan E. Bond, Alex Bertulis, Cameron<br \/>\nM. Burns and Douglas McCarty share encounters with one of the most prolific<br \/>\nand complicated alpinists of our time.<\/p>\n<p>Pressure Lift<br \/>\nForty years after Bob Plumb and Dave Stutzman&#8217;s first ascent of the North<br \/>\nPillar on Devils Thumb (Taalkhunaxhk&#8217;u Shaa), Cole Taylor sails to the Stikine<br \/>\nIcecap of Alaska, alone, to complete an unsupported solo second ascent of the<br \/>\nroute.<\/p>\n<p>Dreaming of Afghan Mountains<br \/>\nIn the 1960s and 70s, Afghanistan hosted some of the world&#8217;s most accomplished<br \/>\nalpinists. Then, with the Soviet invasion and the Afghan Civil War,<br \/>\nmountaineering disappeared from the country for more than two decades. Now,<br \/>\namid the ongoing fighting between the US, the Taliban and other forces, Eileen<br \/>\nGuo recounts efforts of local and international alpinists to restore a<br \/>\nmountain tourism economy.<\/p>\n<p>Glimmers in the Dark<br \/>\nIn early October 2017, Inge Perkins and her boyfriend Hayden Kennedy were<br \/>\ncaught in an avalanche that she did not survive. Kennedy later died by<br \/>\nsuicide. In the aftermath, Derek Franz remembers his friendship with Kennedy,<br \/>\na two-time Piolet d&#8217;Or winner who shunned publicity and who had long seemed to<br \/>\nbe seeking a deeper connection with the world.<\/p>\n<p>Departments<\/p>\n<p>Sharp End<br \/>\nIn 1872 American climber Clarence King revealed a strange and audacious hoax;<br \/>\nmore than 145 years later, the myth of the mountain of diamonds still haunts<br \/>\nthe Western landscape.<\/p>\n<p>Letters<br \/>\nOne reader considers the age-old question: if an alpinist solos in the<br \/>\nCascades and there is no one to Instagram it, does it matter? Another shares<br \/>\nthe stoke with an Alpinist Cover Guy.<\/p>\n<p>On Belay<br \/>\nOn a trip to the rarely visited Leaning Towers in British Columbia&#8217;s Purcell<br \/>\nWilderness, Jenny Abegg considers the limits of what it means to leave no<br \/>\ntrace. Meanwhile, Paula Wright finds Horn&#8217;s mother<\/p>\n<p>Climbing Life<br \/>\nEmily Stifler Wolfe climbs a &#171;different kind of big wall&#187; under the light of<br \/>\nthe moon. Kathy Karlo considers the value of sentimentality in climbing. Tashi<br \/>\nSherpa stands atop Denali twice in three days\u2014and explains why. And Laura<br \/>\nWaterman becomes a mountain steward.<\/p>\n<p>Wired<br \/>\n&#171;Mountaineering history might be dominated by the winners,&#187; German scholar<br \/>\nCaroline Schaumann writes. &#171;But mountaineering literature is frequently<br \/>\nwritten by those who have to come to terms with failure.&#187; In this essay,<br \/>\nSchaumann suggests that the literary theme of the &#171;art of failure&#187; was<br \/>\nperfected by the Prussian naturalist and adventurer Alexander von Humboldt,<br \/>\nwhose philosophic writings and attempt on Chimborazo propelled him to fame in<br \/>\nthe early nineteenth century.<\/p>\n<p>Full Value<br \/>\nAfter the death of Ueli Steck, Stephan Siegrist recalls the friendship that<br \/>\ngrew between them on the terrifying North Face of the Eiger, the mountain that<br \/>\nthe late Swiss alpinist called &#171;home.&#187;<\/p>\n<p>Local Hero<br \/>\nKapil Bisht profiles Lopsang Tshering Sherpa, whose impressive feats as a<br \/>\nhigh-altitude expedition staff member and later sirdar on expeditions to<br \/>\nKumbhakarna (Jannu) and Annapurna have long been overlooked.<\/p>\n<p>Off Belay<br \/>\nJerry Auld describes a close encounter in the Seward Glacier.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Alpinist Magazine Issue 61 &#8211; Spring 2018 The Beckey Effect When he died last October, Fred Beckey, often referred to as the &#171;indomitable,&#187; left behind an unprecedented legacy of first ascents across North America, as well as a legend shaped by decades of lore from all who encountered him in the mountains. 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