The duke of the Abruzzi

An Explorer`s life

Grandson of the first king of Italy, Luigi Amedeo di Savoia-Aosta, or the Duke
of the Abruzzi, was one of the most celebrated explorers of the early
twentieth century. This biography vividly recounts not only the details of his
pioneering expeditions but also the intriguing story of his personal life –
including a doomed love affair with an American heiress and his more
successful friendship with Vittorio Sella.

The Duke’s lifelong passion for adventure began in the Italian Alps of his
childhood. Having mastered the Zmutt Ridge of the Matterhorn at the age of 21,
he vowed to devote himself to mountain exploration. Just three years later, in
1897, he completed the first successful ascent of Alaska’s Mount St. Elias.
His 1899 attempt to be the first to the North Pole fell short of its goal, but
he succeeded in going farther north than any previous expedition. A naval
career did not stop him from exploring the Ruwenzori range in Africa.

The Duke’s most noted achievement was undeniably his pioneering climb on K2 in
1909 on the route that bears his name: the Abruzzi Ridge. In part because of
this achievement, Mountaineers Books have re-introduced this classic,
originally published in 1997.