Alpinist 34

Spring 2011:
Antarctica – Yukon – Pakistan – Norway – Yemen

features
42 – Rock, Mountain, Climber
On May 6, 2010, Katsutaka Yokoyama and Yasushi Okada reached the end of Mt.
Logan› s 8500-foot southeast face, the biggest unclimbed wall in North
America. The next day, they kept going: 3,000 more feet to the east summit
(19,357′) and over thirty kilometers down the East Ridge and around the
glacier to their base camp. To the climbing community, it was one of the
boldest alpine-style journeys in recent years. For Yokoyama, it was a chance
to practice his own form of moving meditation. Katsutaka Yokoyama

52 Welcome to Fantasy Island
In 2009 Mike Libecki tried to live out his dream of making the first ascent of
a tower on a remote Yemeni island. He soon realized that all travelers›
fantasies are never really what they seem—and that the truth may be even more
elusory after you reach the real summit. Mike Libecki

62 Impressions from the Background
Tony Riley eulogizes the parts of twentieth-century Karakoram expeditions that
got left out of most official accounts: behind the foreground of the first
ascents, there was the broader context of the surrounding landscape and the
inner effects of accidents and exploration. Tony Riley

66 The Kingdom of the Moon: An Antarctic Trilogy
French alpinist Lionel Daudet began a quest in 2006, not for higher summits,
but for different ones. During three expeditions to the Great South, he and
his friends sailed through icy waters and battled giant cornices to stand on
top of unclimbed—and scarcely known—Antarctic peaks. In the process, they
found that the best adventure stories are the ones that never end. Lionel
Daudet
78 Dionysian Fire

As a young artist, enamored with Michelangelo› s work, Shelley Zentner wanted
to paint her own muscular figures with turbulent inner worlds and violent
emotions. For a while, she struggled to find the right subject matter. And
then she discovered climbers. Shelley Zentner