The Alpine Journal 2016 – Volume 120

The Alpine Journal is the oldest mountaineering periodical in the world,
created as a record of mountain exploration and culture, and its 153rd
publication celebrates some of the outstanding ascents of 2015.

Two of Britain’s best younger alpinists, Will Sim and Ben Silvestre, describe
hard first ascents in Alaska, while a third, Andy Houseman, has an account of
the first ascent of Link Sar West in the Karakoram, beautifully illustrated by
Jon Griffith.

The celebrated Italian mountaineer Simone Moro details his first winter ascent
of Nanga Parbat, after scores of attempts by himself and many others. There is
also Mick Fowler’s account of the first ascent of Gave Ding in far western
Nepal, exploratory mountaineering of the highest order. The Journal also
records exploration in the Andes, Pakistan, Zanskar, Tajikistan and two
expeditions to Greenland.

The Journal also has some exceptional writing on more cultural topics. Abbie
Garrington looks at George Mallory’s correspondence with his admirer Marjorie
Holmes, while we also publish for the first time a long and revealing letter
Jack Longland wrote from Everest in 1933. Jim Milledge describes the career of
Stanhope Speer, pioneer in mountain medicine and noted spiritualist, while
John Porter recalls his months spent working for Ken Wilson, climbing
publisher and force of nature.

The editor of the Alpine Journal is Ed Douglas, a writer, editor and climber.
He is the author of eight books on mountaineering, travel and adventure,
including the first full-length biography of Tenzing Norgay. He has a
particular passion for the Himalaya and the Peak District, and is at work on
books about both.