Drawing on the latest climbing research, this third edition of the
international best-selling Training for Climbing presents a comprehensive,
evidence-based program for improving climbing performance. With the unique
perspective of a veteran climber, researcher, and coach, Eric Horst blends
leading edge sport science with his decades of climbing and coaching
experience to create a content-rich text packed with practical how-to and
what-to-do information.
A few of the new topics explored include:
• Energy system training to develop greater strength, power-endurance, and
aerobic endurance.
• Recalibrating the brain’s central governor for higher power output and
stamina.
• Daily Undulating Periodization as an effective method of on-season
programming.
• “Training zones” for rock climbers—the secret to truly effective training!
• Stabilizer training to improve arm power and reduce risk of shoulder injury.
Also included are expanded chapters on developing strength, power, and
endurance in the crucial finger flexor and pulling muscles, as well as a must-
read chapter on developing exceptional core strength. Horst completes his
coaching with dedicated chapters on technique and mental training, performance
nutrition, accelerating recovery, and injury prevention. The book’s 300-plus
pages of expert instruction make for the most advanced and complete book of
its type!
Eric Horst is an internationally renowned author and a climber of forty years.
As a researcher and coach, Horst has written hundreds of articles and coached
thousands of climbers from around the world.
3rd edition 2016